This is an automatic water pump controller circuit project. Water is a valuable resource. There is water in us up to 70%. We need water Otherwise, we die.
We usually keep water in the so high tank. Then, let the water below through the water pipe.
Sometimes, No water in Tank. It needs to pump water into the tank.
It’s not comfortable. If you have to wait for a full tank. Then shut off the pump. Do not worry! This automatic water level controller circuit may help you.
Page Contents, Click
Why make automatic pump control?
It will make you more comfortable Because it enables open – close water pump automatically. When full of water, was ordered off the water. But When levels gradually reduced To the required, Then turned on fully the water. So We do not have to worry about overflow and water out anymore.
We have 2 circuits. First, using a transistor version. Second, using the famous 555 timer.
Learn more below!
Using transistors version
The working principle
As Figure 1 shows automatic on-off switch for water pump circuit diagram. In begin states when without water on a bucket. Both transistor Q1 and Q2 will not works. Because the base of both transistors not triggered from the common point. Which still connect positive voltage through R1.
Figure 1 Simple automatic water level controller circuit
And this result to both transistors no conduction. So current through R5 and D1 to trigger base of Q3, cause Q3 conducts current to cause the transistor Q4 also works.
When Q4 conducts current, LED1 will get a direct bias so glow and relay-RY1 will pull in to contact continuously a water pump with the AC-line 220 volts until water to low level (L) cause it as conductor of electricity to base of Q1 get bias and conduct current at collector so have voltage like ground.
But Q3 and Q4 exist voltage at collector so there are voltage same the positive supply, the current will flow through D1 to trigger base of transistor-Q3, so begin cycle working new again.
How makes it
Because this project is small and uses less equipment so easy to build you can assemble them on universal PCB. Or will make the PCB as Figure 2 (I am sorry for no copper layout). You need to put all parts in the correct position, and matches terminal according to Figure 3.
Figure 2 The PCB
The external wires should larger size In particular 220 volts to load power should withstand a minimum of 600 watts.
The external 12V power supply adapter can be used from anywhere but must be able to supply up to 300mA.
In real deployment must bring them to mount in the box neatly and securely. Because the circuit is the voltage AC 220 volts in the PCB which will be harm easily. Put it in a box must be steel or plastic. But must be durable.
Figure 4 completely this project ready to test.
Remember, in the testing circuit, do not connect input and output to AC220V to this project, because maybe the danger while testing them.
Just connected DC 12 volts as a power supply to positive or +12V point and negative to 0V point. If not constitute any part of an error, the result follows.
Firstly, when applying a 12V power supply into the circuit. The LED1 will glow and the relay will work. Then when we connect the “H” and “COM” point together. Next, the LED1 will go out and the relay will stop working take “H” point out of “COM” point so cause LED1 will glow and relay pull in again.
Secondly, the short “L” and “COM” terminal, LED1 will glow and relay still working. Then short “H” to “COM” another one point. Now all three terminals are connected to each end. As a result, the relay stops working and LED1 goes off. When removing the terminal “H” out now relay will not function and LED1 will not glow. When removable terminal “L” out of the terminal “COM” now relay with LED1 light up.
As video below, I am testing this project.
The Parts list
Q1-Q3: 2SC1815 or 2SC1740—NPN transistors or similar
Q4: CS9012—PNP transistor or similar
D1,D2: 1N4148—200V 0.15A Diodes
LED1: As you like
R2, R3: 5K
R4, R5, R8: 10K
C1: 2.2uF 25V—Electrolytic
RY1: 12V-1C 3A current relay
Wires, PCB, and others.
Take three lines to connected to “L” “H” and “COM” terminal will be a general copper wire and cut them as the level you need but do not short-circuit. We may install it in the pond or water tank.
Note: Do not use a point detector in oil or hazardous chemicals. Because it may be a spark of the wire may cause the explosion.
Automatic Pump controller using 555 timer
This is an Automatic water pump controller circuit diagram using an NE555 timer. In the countryside, water is very important. The most to use the groundwater to dig as a pond, and for the convenience, They often use the pump automatically But waste a lot of electricity.
Some homes have a large water tank on high, then Pumping up the put on hold. When you want to use, just to turn on the tap at the bottom. It does not require all-time electricity and also high water pressure.
Water tank system. Convenient and savings, but …
But I have to control the water level in the tank is fixed, is water must not out or overflow, which is a waste of time look at the pump. I have the ideal to create this automatic water pump controller project.
When the water a full tank. This circuit controls the pump stopped working. Then we use the water out. The pump will start running again. This manner is ever automatically
The IC1 No. 555 works in the astable multivibrators. For signal generators to activate the transistor, which is used to drive relays – off the pump.
Assuming flood level to the test point C. (Will has flooded all the time.) But the water level has not reached the test point B. These parts to be IC1, Q1, Q2 (2SD882) and RY1 will not work. So the contacts of RY1a and RY1b be connected to the terminal NC, the 220 volt AC electricity can be supplied to the pump. The waters pump start to pump water into the tank.
Q1: BC547, 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q2: 2SD882, 30V 3A NPN Transistor
D1: 1N4148,75V 150mA Diodes
D1-D5: 1N4007, Diode
RY1: Relay 2 contracts 12V
0.25W 5% Resistor
R1, R5: 1K
R2: 56 ohms
R3: 10 ohms
C1: 0.1uF 63V Polyester
C2: 0.01uF 63V Polyester
C3,C4: 4.7uF 25V Electrolytic
Until the water level increases to the sensor point A, As a result, the sensor point A is connected to the test point C. The IC1 works and pulse signal generator.
Then through diodes, D1 and C4 both to be the DC voltage to the bias current to Q1, After the Q1 and Q2 (2SD882) conducts current.
As a result, current flows through the coil of RY1. So the two sets of the contacts (RY1) move on the poles NO, the pump will stop working.
The contacts of the RY1b sets will connect both test point A – B together. Although the water level drops below the test point A, the pump still does not work.
Until water levels drop below the detector B. Water pumps, therefore, started again. Which will circle as continue?
Up to $20 shipping discount on first order now: https://jlcpcb.com/quote