Fluorescent Lamp | Electronic Project Circuits

Posts Tagged ‘fluorescent lamp’

80W Flourescent Electronic Ballast by PHE13005

This is the schematic of an electronic ballast model 234SLESW designed for running a pair of 4 foot T8 or T12 fluorescent bulbs. It claims to have an Energy Star rating when used with F32T8 bulbs. I picked one of these out of a dumpster and it was broken so I had to draw up a schematic. I figured I’d share it with you. It should be fairly easy to construct if you needed a light, efficient, flicker free ballast for your shop or garage or heck, even your living room!

Parts List
R1, R6 470K Non-Flameproof
R2 22R
R3, R5 1R
R4 30R
R7, R9 30R 1/4W
R8, R10 22R
R11 47R 1/4W
CO1, C7, C8 470n, 250V
C1, C4, C5 100n 63V
C2, C3 47u, 250V
C6 2n2
C9 – 12 33n, 630V
C14 3n3, 2KV Ceramic disc
L1 See Notes
L2 See Notes
L3 See Notes
T1 See Notes
D1 – D5 1N4007
Q1, Q2 PHE13005
Q3, Q4 SS8050
DIAC 32V, DB3
RV 270V 10% Zinc Oxide Varistor ZOV-07D271K
F1 2.5A
All resistors 1/2 Watt and flameproof unless otherwise specified. All capacitors polyester unless otherwise specified.

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http://kickme.to/lightningstalker
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Be the first to comment - What do you think? Posted by admin - April 4, 2008 at 1:56 pm

Categories: Lighting Tags: compact fluorescent light, Electronic Ballast, fluorescent lamp, lamp light

40W Magnetic Ballast With Electronic Ignition

Here is the schematic of another fluorescent ballast circuit from a lamp I acquired along with the 80W electronic ballast. It actually contains a pair of the circuit in the diagram, one for each bulb. The ballast itself is unlabeled, but the chassis sticker calls for 25, 32, or 40 Watt 48″ type T12 bulbs.
The circuit is essentially a line frequency operated magnetic ballast with an electronic igniter circuit in place of the standard glow switch. Unfortunately, I could not measure the inductance of L1 as I cannot afford an LCR meter. Does anyone want to donate one to my cause? I can tell you the size though which really means nothing if you were to try and build this thing, because your core may have a different permeability and Q factor than the one used here, and getting it wrong will damage your bulbs. At any rate, L1 is a laminated iron core inductor with x number of turns to give a reactance limiting the current flowing through the fluorescent bulb FL1. This is necessary because when gas (in this case mercury vapor) becomes ionized, its resistance drops to near zero. Higher temperatures reduce the resistance even further. Lower resistances draw more current and more current makes more heat. Without some kind of external current limitation, this would end in an explosion, and we all know how dangerous mercury is. Current can also be limited with a resistor, but inductors are preferred because a resistor converts the energy into heat, whereas an inductor turns it mostly into magnetism. The 4u7 capacitor is matched with L1 and helps balance out its reactance to make the load appear more resistive. Across it is a 330K resistor to drain any residual voltage when the circuit is switched off for safety reasons.

Read More Source: http://kickme.to/lightningstalker
Thank you.

Be the first to comment - What do you think? Posted by admin - April 3, 2008 at 1:05 pm

Categories: Lighting Tags: compact fluorescent light, Electronic Ballast, fluorescent lamp, lamp light

Mini Flourescent Lamp Inverter

This is the typical circuit from a scanner that drives the flourescent lamp. There is also usually a 2KV capacitor in series with the secondary of the transformer to limit current, etc. They can be used as a general high voltage source for all kinds of things.

Read More Source: http://www.geocities.com/lgtngstk/Strobe/Strobe.html
Thank you.